2011 Northern Sichuan Oct. Trip - Songpan + Ruoergai/Tangke + Langmusi

I would say that the first part of the trip is definitely much harder to plan. There are not that much information out there about this part of Sichuan. I would imagine that it'd be quite difficult for people who don't speak Chinese to travel to. But we did see foreigners but very few along the way (I often find that they are not as friendly as other Chinese travellers).

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9/30 Right after school, Linda and I took the bus into Chengdu. A student and her dad treated us to a late night snack and dropped us off at the hostel we were staying.
If I had other choices, I wouldn't go to this hostel as it's not as new as the other ones I have stayed in Chengdu. But many hostels/hotels were booked so I booked it instead. However, the receptionist is one of the nicest I have ever encountered. I have also had them helped us to buy the bus tickets to Songpan (20 RMB service charge) - it saved us the risk of not being able to get seats and that we are able to leave for Songpan right away the next morning.

10/1 We first encountered a big traffic jam at around Dujiangyan City. I have had experience crazy traffic last year as well so I was indifferent to it. Linda and I, like many locals just got out of the bus to take some legs break.

Here are the pictures from the trip:

Typical Holiday Traffic Jam

Chengdu long distance bus station

                                                                                           

I am sure that every Chinese and traveller knows how crazily busy it is during the holiday time. This is my least favourite part of the trip. But I guess it's the same anywhere else - it's just that China is extra terrible with the amount of people and traffic flow.

Fun & Adventurous Linda 

Linda and I hopped off the bus like others to stretch our legs and take a bathroom break all natural! It was a long bus ride but it wasn't as bad as the one I had last year. I guess it was just the beginning of the trip while that the jam I have had last year was the end of my trip. So it was easier as I was in the holiday mode. I have prepped Linda prior to the trip but she's super easy going and a great travel buddy!

2008 Earthquake affected area

In addition, along the drive to Songpan, the scenery was spectacular and the affect of great 2008 Wenchuan Earthquake was clearly visible. I was in China with my family when the earthquake occurred in Sichuan. It was an extremely powerful earthquake that toppled over poorly constructed schools and building causing many deaths. I remembered that it was an heart wrenching incident. It was surreal as we were driving by and seeing the old highway that's blocked by rocks and bridges that were broken or not safe to walk on. This was just the surrounding area -- I can't imagine what it is like for Wenchuan (the earthquake centre). It made me in awe of the power of nature and put me in perspective.            

By 5:30 pm (we started at 8:30 from Chengdu), we arrived at Songpan. Then we started the task of finding a place to stay. Since it was really hard to find accommodation information online, I thought it wouldn't be too bad to find a place to stay for one night as we are heading North the very next day. Many places we have asked were asking for 350 RMB for a night - insanely expensive, gouging the Oct. 1 tourists. Luckily, Linda and I aren't too high maintenance when we are backpacking. We ended up staying with a Tibetant/Han lady, Ms. Yang (for 60 RMB a night-still pricy) who owns a souvenir shop on the street of the town. We couldn't shower and the bathroom was basically a trough with stepping boards on top. We can't complain as long as we have a place to stay for the night. The temperature was definitely much cooler comparing to the cities area - It was nice, cold, and refreshing. After settling in, we went out for dinner, walked around the old town, and bought snack for the next day. We came across this bucket of yummy yogurt that we always talked about it after the trip. Crafty Linda cut open water bottles; we mixed sugar with the natural yogurt in and we ate it with chopsticks. It was the best yogurt ever!!! The next morning we got up early and hiked up the hill at the back of the town. We came across this quiet temple with friendly local old laides. It was peaceful then we came back down and picked up our stuff to go take the bus to the next town. We would cross Songpan again to go to the second part of our trip.

Even though Songpan is a bit touristy, I really like it. It is very small and I love the old architecture (I wish that the municipality would preserve the old structure. I really don't like how they would commercialize the area by building faux ancient structured building). In the ancient time, Songpan was an important trading centre and also an stop-over for a Chinese princess, Wencheng enroute to the cross marriage to the Tibetan empire founder, Songtsän Gampo. Supposedly there are many beautiful places all around, Songpan is also known for its horse trekking tours. On the Lonely Planet, there are mixed reviews. On this trip, I didn't attempt to give it a try as due to time factor.

A little temple on top of the town

Dry yak jerky

Songpan Old City Gateway

yay~snow

Small town of Ruoergai, populated by Tibetans

10/2 To our next destination, we rode the bus into Ruoergai (Zoige in Tibetan). It costed 44 RMB per person. The bus departed at 10 AM and we got there around around mid afternoon. On the drive there, the elevation must has increased, as there were sections of roads that we saw snow. Snow in October! As Linda's from Winnipeg, she was very happy to see snow, too. We have also met this nice couple from Chengdu. They basically did our trip in reverse as they went to Jiuzhai first . We planned to meet up after lunch and to share a car together to Tangke. The hostel we stayed at cost 50 RMB per person. The taxi we shared cost 150 RMB. Our destination was to the township, called Tangke. The viewpoint at Tangke is spectacular -- if the weather is permitting, you can see the beautiful bending yellow river that's flowing slowly through the part of the vast and rich high Tibetan Plateau land. I came across pictures of this place and it helped me to do this trip. Linda and I were not disappointed. We were lucky when we got there that it was free to get in. There were tourists from other parts of China but the place was not packed. Also, we had sun so the view was absolutely fantastic.

Care for a horseback ride?

Famous Tangke Nine Twisty Curves of Yellow River's First Bend

10/ 3 The next day, we shared a rented car (200 RMB for 4 people) with the Chinese couple to our next destination, Langmusi. I didn't expect much of it prior going there. I only knew that it is the only place in China other than Tibet where you can still see Tibetan's sky burial of deceased. But I have to say, Langmusi became the best place out of the whole trip for me. (Later I found that it's also a popular horse trekking destination and that there must be many foreigner travel groups visiting here as part of the Amdo region of Tibet). I refer to this helpful blog by a seasoned traveler who operates a traveling company in these regions as well: http://kekexili.typepad.com/life_on_the_tibetan_plate/2010/07/langmusi.html

On the drive there, we were able to stop and to take pictures. The Zoige Marsh/Grassland is absolutely beautiful. According to other travellers' stories online, in spring the grassland is even more beautiful with wild flowers blooming everywhere. But I think it has its beauty as well in the early fall. We also passed by a monument dedicated to the Liberation Army as they marched over the marsh under harsh condition in 1935. 

Beautiful Ruoergai Marshes/Grassland

grazing yaks

Majestic Red Stone Cliff & local children

We arrived at Langmusi around lunch time and we went to a Muslim restaurant for lunch. The hostel we were staying was connected to the one at Ruoergai (50 RMB per bed/night). The accommodation there was very limited thus, you really have to pre-book it. After lunch, I suggested to hike up the majestic Red Stone Cliff as we first entered the city. On the way up, we saw a group of Chinese tourists who walked up halfway with local children as guides. The children came to ask for money but we just kept hiking up.

Linda's lucky find

goats among slopes

The view there was simply beautiful. There were big birds (eagles or some sort that you don't see at all in the city) flying over and big herd of goats and yaks grazing among the slopes. Then it suddenly started snowing and Linda found a perfect eagle weather as she called it the lucky charm. After the little hike, we went back into the town, enjoyed apple pie and warm tea at Lesha, an restaurant that's popular with Western food. Later, we walked around, did a bit of shopping, had dinner, and hung out at the hostel talking to young Chinese travellers from other parts of China. It was a great day.

10/4 Epic 8.5 hrs trekking around Langmusi 

I read it online that supposedly there's a not so difficult trek at the back of the Tibetan temple to the origin of the White Dragon Creek that runs through the town. I didn't plan out how to get there exactly. I just told Linda that we are going to hike around and we took a small road at the back of the town. Both of us were just so happy with the scenery around that we just kept going where the road lead us.

It could have been dangerous thinking back. But we just kept going with high spirits. By late morning, we came across a horse trekking group. We needed help crossing a small creek and the horseman asked for some money for his service. Later around lunch time, we met up again with the group where they had a rest station set up there and we were able to buy some hot food from them as well. In the group, there were 2 couples from Canada, America, a family of five from German, and two European ladies (forgot where they were from). After lunch, we followed the group to this spring coming out from the rocks and I thought that it was the White Dragon Creek (There was writing on it, too! Are there two origins?) When we got there, someone from the trekking band asked us for money to be there - didn't like that. We didn't stay too long as we were getting worried that we need to get back before the sun set. The horse trekking group supposedly went in further and settled with some nomad families. Then it began our tiring trek back. We had to walk around cliffs, hike up and down slopes, walk among bushes, and cross icy cold creek to get back. By the end of the trip, we were in the "funny" hilarious mood state. We were just so glad to get back as the sun sets. It was my first ever LONG trekking experience. Without Linda, I wouldn't be able to do it on my own. 

In here, I have to mention about the environment issue. Langmusi is such a beautiful and culturally rich town with its people of different religions living peacefully together. But it's sad that the locals/visitors are not environmentally conscious of their action and practice. It's so sad to see the sides of the creek by the town fill with litters. I really hope one day that Langmusi can return to its old time beauty.

ps. I had problem with my memory card - so I lost my pictures of the trek :( 

     But Langmusi is one of the places that I would love to go back again.

Town of Langmusi

10/5 Tibetan Sky Burial

Early morning around 5 AM, we headed to the burial site at the back of the temple. I debated whether to go or not and decided to go. I wouldn't recommend anyone to go if you couldn't respect the deceased and the traditional practice of the Tibetan people. We got there early and thought that there weren't any burials for the day (as it doesn't happen everyday). Some Chinese tourists then examined the burial ritual site and started taking pictures of the remains on the ground. Linda and I were shocked at how these people were. Then the burial people came in a white mini-van and carried out bodies onto the platform. The ritualist kept people at a distance and made wild cries to attract eagles. I just couldn't explain how absurd it was. A sacred funeral ceremony was taking place and there were people with camera filming it. Linda and I left in mid way, went back towards the Tibetan temple and gave it a quick tour (30 RMB entrance fee). I really don't know much about the religion but I admire how Tibetans are all devoted with strong faith. 

This ends the first part of our trip. The second part of the trip we would be at "Heaven on Earth", Jiuzhaigou (Chinese people are very good at giving beautiful names).

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Sorry this is a way too long post! 

I need to figure out how to make the page looks nicer with the pictures. Any suggestions?